Skip to content

Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Stable woven fabrics

Denim

What is denim? Denim is a durable woven twill, usually cotton, with diagonal ribs and traditionally coloured warp yarns over pale weft yarns. It ranges from soft shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric; non-stretch denim is firm and stable, while denim blended with elastane has more give.

Close-up of Denim fabric

Denim is a type of twill, not a separate weave from it. Compared with chambray, denim is normally heavier and its diagonal structure is more visible. It is commonly used for jeans, jackets, skirts and bags.

Characteristics

  • Durable diagonal twill weave
  • Usually medium-to-heavy weight
  • Stable when non-stretch; flexible when blended with elastane

Common uses

  • Jeans
  • Jackets
  • Skirts
  • Bags

Sewing notes

  • Use a jeans needle and strong thread appropriate to the weight.
  • Grade bulky seams and use a hump aid where thickness changes sharply.
  • Pre-wash separately because indigo dye can transfer and the fabric may shrink.

Embroidery notes

  • Firm denim supports many designs, but dense stitching can make the area stiff.
  • Keep thick seams out of the hoop and needle path.
  • Stretch denim needs permanent support to control movement.

Practical tips

  • Test topstitching and embroidery on layered scraps.
  • Use the smallest strong needle that handles the full stack.
  • Support heavy garments so their weight cannot pull the hoop.