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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Delicate & sheer fabrics

Organza

What is organza? Organza is a transparent, crisp plain-weave fabric made from silk or synthetic fibres. It is lightweight but holds its shape, giving more body than very fluid sheers; it can fray readily and retain visible needle or pin marks.

Close-up of Organza fabric

Organza is often compared with chiffon, but organza is stiffer and more structured while chiffon has softer movement. It is commonly used for formalwear, overlays, decorative sleeves and lightweight interfacing.

Characteristics

  • Sheer with a crisp hand
  • Lightweight but structured
  • Frays readily and can retain needle marks

Common uses

  • Formalwear
  • Overlays
  • Decorative sleeves
  • Interfacing

Sewing notes

  • Use a fine sharp needle and enclosed or narrow seam finishes.
  • Keep pins inside seam allowances where possible.
  • Press carefully at a fibre-appropriate temperature.

Embroidery notes

  • Open linework and freestanding-style effects suit the transparent surface.
  • Use a fine needle with wash-away support where appropriate.
  • Plan the reverse because support and thread travel may remain visible.

Practical tips

  • Cut in a single layer when the fabric shifts easily.
  • Use tissue or another temporary support if handling is difficult.
  • Practise on a generous scrap before using the final piece.