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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Knit & stretch fabrics

Lycra / Spandex

What is Lycra or spandex? Lycra, spandex and elastane are names for the highly elastic fibre usually blended into another fabric, rather than one fabric construction on their own. The resulting fabric stretches and recovers strongly, often feels smooth and close-fitting, and is sensitive to heat and needle choice.

Close-up of Lycra / Spandex fabric

It is often confused with jersey, but jersey may have only natural knit stretch while elastane blends are designed for much greater recovery. These fabrics are common in swimwear, dancewear, leggings and performance clothing.

Characteristics

  • High stretch and recovery
  • Flexible synthetic or blended construction
  • Close-fitting drape

Common uses

  • Swimwear
  • Dancewear
  • Leggings
  • Performance clothing

Sewing notes

  • Use a stretch needle and a flexible seam or overlocker stitch.
  • Avoid heat that can damage elastane fibres.
  • Handle without stretching edges out of shape.

Embroidery notes

  • Use soft permanent support and hoop without stretching.
  • Small, open designs move more comfortably with the fabric.
  • Test for skipped stitches and distortion before production.

Practical tips

  • Allow the fabric to relax before cutting.
  • Test seam stretch and recovery on an offcut.
  • Support the garment weight during embroidery.