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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Coated & non-woven surfaces

Leather

What is leather? Leather is tanned animal hide with natural grain, strength and variation from piece to piece. It does not fray like woven fabric, but its thickness, softness and stretch vary widely, and every needle hole is permanent.

Close-up of Leather fabric

Leather differs from faux leather because it is a natural hide rather than a coated textile, so it develops and handles differently over time. It is commonly used for bags, jackets, footwear and accessories.

Characteristics

  • Strong natural hide with unique grain
  • Does not fray
  • Thickness, stretch and softness vary widely

Common uses

  • Bags
  • Jackets
  • Footwear
  • Accessories

Sewing notes

  • Use clips, a leather-point needle and longer stitches.
  • Skive or grade bulky seam allowances when the leather permits it.
  • Use a suitable foot and test tension, thread and seam construction on a scrap.

Embroidery notes

  • Float over firm support and choose open designs with minimal repeats.
  • A sharp embroidery needle may suit very soft garment leather; test against a leather-point needle.
  • Avoid dense fills that can cut out a perforated section of hide.

Practical tips

  • Test adhesives, heat and needle marks on an offcut.
  • Keep hardware and thick joins clear of the needle path.
  • Choose the smallest needle that forms reliable stitches.