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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Delicate & sheer fabrics

Silk

What is silk? Silk is a natural protein fibre spun into fabrics ranging from crisp dupion to fluid charmeuse. It can be smooth and lustrous with beautiful drape, yet its surface may snag, watermark or show needle marks, so handling and pressing need care.

Close-up of Silk fabric

Silk is sometimes confused with satin, but silk is a fibre while satin is a weave that can be made from silk, polyester or other fibres. Silk is commonly used for blouses, dresses, scarves and luxury linings.

Characteristics

  • Smooth, lustrous and lightweight
  • Strong fibre with a delicate surface
  • Can watermark, snag and shift while sewing

Common uses

  • Blouses
  • Dresses
  • Scarves
  • Luxury linings

Sewing notes

  • Use a fine sharp needle, fine thread and a clean smooth work surface.
  • Cut single-layer when the fabric is especially slippery.
  • Test pressing with low heat and a press cloth to avoid water marks.

Embroidery notes

  • Choose small, open designs and a lightweight support that will not overpower the drape.
  • Use the smallest practical hoop and avoid over-tightening.
  • Test every design because needle marks and puckering may be permanent.

Practical tips

  • Cut in a single layer when the fabric shifts easily.
  • Use tissue or another temporary support if handling is difficult.
  • Practise on a generous scrap before using the final piece.