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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Delicate & sheer fabrics

Satin

What is satin? Satin is a weave structure with long surface floats that create a smooth, reflective face and a duller reverse. It can be made from silk, polyester, acetate or other fibres, so its weight, drape and care needs depend on the fibre as well as the weave.

Close-up of Satin fabric

Satin is not automatically silk: polyester satin can look similar but feels and handles differently. Its shine and fluid drape make satin popular for eveningwear, bridal wear, lingerie and linings.

Characteristics

  • Glossy face and duller reverse
  • Fluid to structured depending on fibre and weight
  • Slippery, fray-prone and easily snagged

Common uses

  • Eveningwear
  • Bridal wear
  • Lingerie
  • Linings

Sewing notes

  • Use a new fine sharp needle and handle the right side carefully.
  • Cut accurately with weights or fine pins placed in seam allowances.
  • Press from the reverse with low heat and a press cloth.

Embroidery notes

  • Use light, smooth support and avoid dense fills that cause rippling.
  • A fine sharp embroidery needle helps make clean holes in the woven surface.
  • Keep hoop marks away from visible areas and test for permanent shine.

Practical tips

  • Cut in a single layer when the fabric shifts easily.
  • Use tissue or another temporary support if handling is difficult.
  • Practise on a generous scrap before using the final piece.