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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Knit & stretch fabrics

Neoprene

What is neoprene fabric? Sewing neoprene is usually a spongy synthetic fabric or foam-like layer bonded to knit faces, rather than the thick diving-suit rubber people may picture. It has body, some stretch and a smooth, structured drape that holds sculptural shapes.

Close-up of Neoprene fabric

It is sometimes compared with scuba knit, which has a similar double-knit look but is often thinner and more fabric-like. Neoprene is commonly used for structured dresses, skirts, jackets, bags and costume pieces.

Characteristics

  • Thick laminated construction
  • Cushioned with moderate stretch
  • Stable cut edges and limited drape

Common uses

  • Wetsuits
  • Laptop sleeves
  • Structured garments
  • Accessories

Sewing notes

  • Use clips and a longer stitch to avoid unnecessary perforation.
  • A walking foot can help thick layers feed evenly.
  • Avoid crushing the foam with excessive pressing or hoop pressure.

Embroidery notes

  • Float or hoop gently because pressure can leave lasting compression.
  • Use a strong suitable needle and a moderate-density design.
  • Confirm the machine can move the full thickness freely.

Practical tips

  • Allow the fabric to relax before cutting.
  • Test seam stretch and recovery on an offcut.
  • Support the garment weight during embroidery.