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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Knit & stretch fabrics

Stretch performance polyester

What is stretch performance polyester? Stretch performance polyester is a synthetic knit or woven fabric engineered for active clothing, often blended with elastane for movement and recovery. It is usually smooth, quick-drying and resilient, while its weight can range from light running fabric to more substantial gym wear.

Close-up of Stretch performance polyester fabric

It may be called activewear or wicking fabric, but the exact breathability and moisture management depend on the particular construction and finish. It is commonly used for sportswear, leggings, training tops and fitted performance garments.

Characteristics

  • Stretch knit construction
  • Lightweight and quick-drying
  • Smooth, slippery and heat-sensitive

Common uses

  • Running shirts
  • Teamwear
  • Gym clothing
  • Base layers

Sewing notes

  • Use a stretch needle and a flexible seam or overlocker stitch.
  • Avoid heat that can damage elastane fibres.
  • Handle without stretching edges out of shape.

Embroidery notes

  • Use soft permanent support and hoop without stretching.
  • Small, open designs move more comfortably with the fabric.
  • Test for skipped stitches and distortion before production.

Practical tips

  • Allow the fabric to relax before cutting.
  • Test seam stretch and recovery on an offcut.
  • Support the garment weight during embroidery.