Skip to content
Stitch ToolkitPractical tools for sewing and embroidery

Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Close-up of jersey knit fabricJersey knitA soft knitted fabric with a smooth face, looped back and natural stretch, most familiar as the fabric used for T-shirts.View fabricClose-up of Cotton jersey fabricCotton jerseyA breathable cotton single knit with a soft hand, rolled cut edges and stretch that varies with fibre blend and construction.View fabricClose-up of Polyester knit fabricPolyester knitA resilient synthetic knit that resists wrinkles, dries quickly and may range from stable double knit to fluid jersey.View fabricClose-up of Interlock fabricInterlockA smooth double-knit fabric that looks similar on both sides, with more body, stability and recovery than single jersey.View fabricClose-up of Rib knit fabricRib knitA knitted fabric with raised vertical ribs and strong crosswise stretch, commonly used where close fit and recovery are needed.View fabricClose-up of Sweater knit fabricSweater knitA broad group of knitted fabrics with visible loops, warmth and soft drape, ranging from fine compact knits to bulky open structures.View fabricClose-up of Lycra / Spandex fabricLycra / SpandexA highly elastic fabric or blend designed to stretch and recover, often smooth, close-fitting and sensitive to heat and needle choice.View fabricClose-up of Stretch performance polyester fabricStretch performance polyesterA lightweight synthetic stretch knit engineered to move moisture, dry quickly and remain comfortable during activity.View fabricClose-up of Stretch denim fabricStretch denimA denim twill blended with elastane for comfort and recovery, combining a durable woven face with controlled stretch.View fabricClose-up of Neoprene fabricNeopreneA thick, resilient synthetic material often made from foam laminated between knitted faces, with body, stretch and minimal fraying.View fabric

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Close-up of Terry towelling fabricTerry towellingAn absorbent woven or knitted fabric covered with loops on one or both sides, giving towels their characteristic pile.View fabricClose-up of Fleece fabricFleeceA soft insulating fabric with a brushed or napped surface; it may be a stable cotton sweatshirt knit or a stretchier synthetic fleece.View fabricClose-up of Polar fleece fabricPolar fleeceA warm synthetic knit with raised pile, low absorbency and edges that do not fray, available in several thicknesses.View fabricClose-up of Velvet fabricVelvetA luxurious fabric with dense upright pile that changes shade with direction and can be permanently marked by pressure.View fabricClose-up of Velour fabricVelourA soft plush fabric, often knitted and stretchy, with a shorter pile and more casual drape than traditional woven velvet.View fabricClose-up of Minky fabricMinkyA very soft knitted polyester plush with a short dense pile, noticeable stretch and a tendency for layers to creep.View fabricClose-up of Corduroy fabricCorduroyA durable woven fabric with raised lengthwise ribs called wales; wale width and pile direction strongly affect appearance.View fabricClose-up of Faux fur fabricFaux furA knitted or woven synthetic base carrying long pile fibres that have a strong direction and can completely hide fine stitching.View fabricClose-up of Sherpa fabricSherpaA bulky synthetic pile fabric with a curled, wool-like surface and knitted base, valued for warmth and softness.View fabric

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Close-up of Silk fabricSilkA natural protein-fibre fabric prized for lustre, drape and strength, available in constructions ranging from crisp dupion to fluid charmeuse.View fabricClose-up of Satin fabricSatinA fabric defined by its smooth, reflective satin weave; the long surface floats create shine but also make the face prone to snagging and marking.View fabricClose-up of Chiffon fabricChiffonAn extremely light, sheer plain weave with a softly crinkled surface, airy drape and a strong tendency to shift and fray.View fabricClose-up of Organza fabricOrganzaA transparent, crisp plain-weave fabric with more body than chiffon, often used where a light but structured layer is wanted.View fabricClose-up of Lace fabricLaceAn open patterned textile made by knitting, weaving or embroidering threads into decorative motifs with transparent spaces between them.View fabric

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Close-up of Felt fabricFeltA dense non-woven sheet made by matting or bonding fibres, with no grain and edges that can usually be left raw.View fabricClose-up of Wool felt fabricWool feltA resilient felt made wholly or partly from wool fibres, with a rich matte surface, clean-cut edges and more recovery than most craft felt.View fabricClose-up of Burlap / hessian fabricBurlap / hessianA coarse, open plain weave usually made from jute, recognised by its rustic texture, visible yarns and tendency to shed and fray.View fabricClose-up of Cork fabric fabricCork fabricA thin natural cork veneer bonded to a flexible textile backing, giving a leather-like surface with distinctive grain and very little fraying.View fabric

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

Close-up of Vinyl fabricVinylA flexible plastic surface, often PVC bonded to a textile backing, that is wipeable and available in weights from table covering to upholstery.View fabricClose-up of Faux leather fabricFaux leatherA textile-backed synthetic material coated to imitate leather, with consistent colour and grain but permanent needle holes.View fabricClose-up of Leather fabricLeatherTanned animal hide with natural variation, strength and a non-woven structure; every needle hole is permanent.View fabric

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Stable woven fabrics

Linen

What is linen? Linen is a woven fabric made from flax fibres. It is breathable, low-stretch and recognisable by its natural slubs, dry hand and tendency to wrinkle; it can feel crisp at first and soften with wear and washing.

Close-up of Linen fabric

Linen is often compared with cotton because both are natural plant fibres, but linen usually has more texture, less elasticity and a crisper drape. It is commonly used for shirts, dresses, table linen and cushion covers, especially in warm-weather projects.

Characteristics

  • Woven flax fibres
  • Low stretch and breathable
  • Natural texture with moderate-to-heavy fraying

Common uses

  • Shirts
  • Dresses
  • Table linen
  • Cushion covers

Sewing notes

  • Pre-wash because linen can shrink and soften substantially.
  • Use a sharp needle and finish raw edges promptly.
  • Press firmly with moisture at a temperature suitable for the finish.

Embroidery notes

  • The stable base handles many embroidery designs well.
  • Use support appropriate to the fabric weight and design density.
  • Avoid very dense designs on lighter weights to reduce puckering.

Practical tips

  • Pre-wash when the finished item will be laundered.
  • Keep the grain straight when cutting and hooping.
  • Test the design at full size on a matching scrap.