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Sewing and embroidery reference

Fabric Guide

Learn to recognise common fabrics and see practical sewing and embroidery advice for each one.

Search by fabric name, common alias, characteristic or use.

Stable woven fabrics

13 fabrics

Close-up of Quilting cotton fabricQuilting cottonA medium-light plain-weave cotton with a crisp hand, low stretch and enough stability for accurate piecing and general craft sewing.View fabricClose-up of Cotton broadcloth fabricCotton broadclothA smooth, tightly woven cotton with a fine crosswise rib, light-to-medium weight and a neat, slightly crisp finish.View fabricClose-up of Poplin fabricPoplinA closely woven fabric with a subtle rib, smooth surface and crisp drape, commonly made from cotton or cotton blends.View fabricClose-up of Calico fabricCalicoAn inexpensive plain-weave cotton, often unbleached, with a firm handle and visible natural flecks.View fabricClose-up of Muslin fabricMuslinA plain-weave cotton available from fine and soft to coarse and open, usually lightweight and breathable.View fabricClose-up of Chambray fabricChambrayA lightweight woven fabric using a coloured warp and pale weft, giving a denim-like appearance with a softer drape.View fabricClose-up of Flannel fabricFlannelA soft woven fabric with a brushed surface that traps warmth; cotton flannel is stable but can shrink and shed lint.View fabricClose-up of Cotton drill fabricCotton drillA durable medium-to-heavy cotton twill with a firm diagonal weave and good resistance to everyday wear.View fabricClose-up of Twill fabricTwillA family of woven fabrics recognised by diagonal ribs, usually durable, stable and more drapey than an equivalent plain weave.View fabricClose-up of Linen fabricLinenA breathable woven flax fabric with a natural slub, crisp-to-fluid drape and a tendency to wrinkle and fray.View fabricClose-up of Denim fabricDenimA durable woven twill recognised by its visible diagonal weave. Denim ranges from light shirting weights to heavy jeans fabric and may include stretch fibres.View fabricClose-up of Canvas fabricCanvasA strong, closely woven fabric with substantial body, commonly made from cotton, linen or synthetic fibres.View fabricClose-up of Duck cloth fabricDuck clothA tightly woven, smooth-faced canvas fabric that is firm, durable and generally less textured than ordinary canvas.View fabric

Knit & stretch fabrics

10 fabrics

Pile & textured fabrics

9 fabrics

Delicate & sheer fabrics

5 fabrics

Craft & specialty fabrics

4 fabrics

Coated & non-woven surfaces

3 fabrics

44 fabric references across woven, stretch, textured, delicate, craft and non-woven surfaces. Test techniques on an offcut when possible.

Knit & stretch fabrics

Stretch denim

What is stretch denim? Stretch denim is denim twill blended with elastane or another stretch fibre. It keeps denim's diagonal weave and familiar look but has extra give, making it more comfortable in close-fitting garments; the amount of recovery varies by blend and weight.

Close-up of Stretch denim fabric

Compared with non-stretch denim, stretch denim is less stable and needs seams and handling that do not overstretch it. It is commonly used for fitted jeans, skirts, jackets and casual trousers.

Characteristics

  • Diagonal woven twill
  • Moderate stretch from elastane
  • Medium-to-heavy weight

Common uses

  • Jeans
  • Fitted jackets
  • Skirts
  • Jeggings

Sewing notes

  • Use a stretch or jeans needle based on the fabric’s firmness and elastane content.
  • Choose seams and topstitching that will tolerate the intended movement.
  • Avoid excessive heat that can weaken stretch fibres.

Embroidery notes

  • Permanent support helps stop the design fighting the fabric stretch.
  • Hoop in a relaxed state and avoid very rigid, dense designs.
  • Test needle point because construction varies between products.

Practical tips

  • Pre-wash when the finished item will be laundered.
  • Keep the grain straight when cutting and hooping.
  • Test the design at full size on a matching scrap.